Hong Kong for 6 hours: the Tung Chung cable car up to the Big Buddha

When I was here before there was not much to do on a stopover, if you didn't have the money for shopping and you'd eaten all the food you wanted for a while, except take the funicular tram to the Peak, and having got there you could walk about on the dusty path with all the other people, both residents and tourists, and admire the view  of skyscrapers down below, islands and the harbour. I remember looking at all the tall blocks of flats and thinking how amazing that so many people had so few parks, so that a trip up to the top made a day out. (I think that there were monkeys up there but I may have confused it with Gibraltar.) I mainly remember over-hearing a hair-raising conversation of some aircrew who were up there getting over the shock of a near-crash experience. The runway at H.K. was notoriously difficult.

Now there is a new airport on a purpose-built island - a merger of two pre-existing islands plus land reclamation. The layout and the airport buildings are glossy and spacious - built to an impressive specification and scale. We looked at a map and decided to visit the nearest island by catching a bus, (the S1) because there was a much nearer cable-car trip this time, at Tung Chung. Outside the airport, we looked for the bus-stop and had to get the right change (the buses are like Egnlish buses, double-deckers.) The temperature was warm but not too hot, but the humidity was like a sauna.

My oh my, what a cable-car trip! It goes on and on. As soon as I saw it I wanted to do it even if it was expensive, which it is. It takes you up into the cloud. It's so hot and damp it feels like being in the tropical dome at the Eden centre. The views are of sea, islands, building works - the airport island is being extendd - and below the car are the lush green trees and bushes. On and on, up and up. There are seven mighty towers to hold the cables and 2 angle stations. One of the stations is on the airport island but it wasn't possible to get on or off there (I expect it will be one day.)

I am typing this in the foyer of the Novotel in Brisbane at 5 in the morning - have been awake since 2 or so - my body clock is seriously upset and it's taking it longer to adapt than I thought it would. But I like the foyer; the peaceful space, good lighting, canned music and the quiet. This is an Apple computer and has a big screen, a weird keyboard and an annoying operating system. But it's not Apple's fault that the damn thing keeps timing me out.

 The destination is newly-built like a Disneyland - I always seem to liken major developments, built from scratch, to Disneyland - to explain the quality of it I think, the stone paths and the well-designed and solidly-built structures. Really, it's Buddhaland. There are souvenir shops, food "outlets" and a restaurant, and cinema - big screen? - seems to be showing "the life of Buddha", and theatre with a similarly themed show. A path enourages you to think about spiritual things as you walk along as there are statues of Buddhist role models - 12 generals, each representing both a sign of the Chinese zodiac, and also, 2 hours of the day, and each holds a symbol.

Next there is a concentric structure which we hoped was the Big Buddha, although we couldn't see any statue; it turned out to be some concentric walls designed as a prayer garden. Here we saw a Buddhist monk, something like the Dalai Lama for age, dressed in a long pale dressing gown rather than an orange robe.

We followed the signs for the Big Buddha and they led to a double line of wide steps which led up into the cloud, but on and on we went - it turns out that there were 260 steps; and it you looked over the wall of the structure, far below you could see the old original track up to the peak, and I believe that the single-track, wood-slatted path would have been a penitential pilgrimage. The point of going would have been to visit the Buddhist monastery on the peak. How amazingly difficult the construction of it must have been! Even the climb up the steps we did was a physical challenge in the heat - it was a very moist day, with the cloud sometimes turning to rain. When we finally reached the top we couldn't see the Buddha for the cloud, but I think it was a beautiful one. Around the structure the tall plants were beating around in the wind.

We had to rush down again (and it is really a nonsense for me to rush down steps; I just have to go steadily because of my Fear) because of having to check in for our flight to Cairns. We were dismayed to see how long the queue was for the downhill cable car. Thousands of people were patiently standing in a long line that wrapped round and round itself so you couldn't see how long it was, (they were all looking at their smartphones) and we figured we wouldn't get down to the airport for at least an hour and a half. My husband went to ask if there was a bus we could catch instead, and then a miracle happened. When he explained that we had a flight to catch, the member of staff whom he asked took us straight to the front of the queue. We jumped the entire queue and caught the second car that came along. Amazing.

We caught the bus to the airport (the S1). Then we found our flight had been delayed by two hours! So annoying because I had missed the opportunity to buy a cheesy fridge magnet or two, and done all that queue-jumping and dashing around. We were so tired we nearly collapsed into our paper tea cups. Neither of us can sleep on a plane.

More facts

Apparently the Peak (Victoria Peak) by funicular is still the most popular visitor attraction and now there are lots of shops up there (I remember a cafe but I don't remember shops).

The new cable car trip is 5.7 km long.

The monastery is called Po Lin Monastery. (Precious Lotus Zen Temple). It was built in 1907 and is open to the public. There are 3 big halls with great statues to the Buddha representing his past, present and future lives.

The Big Buddha is 34 metres tall, made of bronze and was completed in 1993. It symbolises the harmonious relationship between people and nature [we wish!], and people and faith. The Buddha's right hand is raised, symbolising the removal of affliction, while the left opens on his left as a gesture of generosity.

I think language is a portal to a culture

and of course, it is also part of that culture. If anything, I would like to offer an Advanced Plus course that is like a cultural survey of what  you can find on the other side of the portal; songs, play readings, stories, films, radio programmes, comedy; even explanations of maths and science (like the Arecibo message). I think that would be interesting in the language one has acquired, and it also rewards the learner for learning the language - I wonder if there are any learners out there who would like that, and don't want to take exams?

but also I would like to organise an exchange forum, so that the students bring something from their own culture and put an explanation/translation into English to share with the group in the lingua franca. English is not a more interesting language than any other language, but we have a great deal to share that is worth sharing, and we need to learn from people from other language backgrounds because we are too insular. Much too insular. My friend Susie went to an interesting thing in Woerden or Wageningen run by the bookshop - it was an evening for speakers of other languages, where each participant had to bring a poem and read it in their own language, explain it briefly in Dutch, and then talk about what it meant to them. I thought it could be very interesting.

Meanwhile, In my town, the bookshop has suddenly closed down. I know all book shops struggle - but I had no idea that our bookshop would close. It was a good bookshop and I will miss it.

Campaigns: please click on the links, read, and sign if you want. Hurry, hurry!

https://speakout.38degrees.org.uk/campaigns/protect-freedom-of-information
We have the right to ask for information about gvt data : the government wants to take away that right. Please sign here.

Protect our oceans from deep-sea mining: please sign here: fhttps://secure.avaaz.org/en/deep_sea_mining_en_dn1/?tJuFKib

Publish the statistics showing how many people have died after their benefits were stopped.
The government doesn't seem to have noticed how many people who need benefits are emotionally fragile. There is no framework in place to stop them from taking their own lives.
here

Let's try to stop babies dying - Group B strep infection

And finally, Russell Brand - OK he seems slightly hysterical - but he has calmed down quite a lot - the black cab drivers have a good case -  watch here

Recovering from the end of term - The Sonia Delaunay exhibition at the Tate

I met Rosalind on Friday at Waterloo station and after a lengthy coffee discussing her party, we walked to the Tate, and she was the ideal person to see the exhibition with, because she is an artist with a great feeling for colour and she is also interested in textiles. We had very different ideas about what we liked so that was interesting.

First of all, there were these pictures which Sonia D painted in or around 1907. Roz noted the Kelim carpet background.

I find the green - tinted flesh very off-putting. These are like German expressionist colours and don't the German expressionists use them to show feelings of tension and even hysteria? 

She painted her dressmaker over and over again, and so she did with a Finnish friend. Clearly, the finnish friend had a typically Finnish snub-nosed wide-cheeked face which Sonia D found fun to put into colours.

This one is much more likeable; even the yellow eyelids, and she could probably show it at the Portait awards this year and it wouldn't look out of date.

Here is her dressmaker.

Again, I have seen a portrait like this at the BP Portrait show - the patterned background, the bright colour. But it is also right in the avant garde of its time (Picasso and Matisse).

And this one is very like a Matisse sketch - but this is my favourite - it's very calm, the structure is simple and the gold colour is arresting and subtle.

Ahhhh.

I've just realised that there are two circles in this pic, and I think at this point Sonia goes into circle mode. She paints in another style, very abstract, which involves as many circles as possible, and they are OK.... But first there is an in between stage of the semi-abstract, which is interesting to look at; trying to see the figures that are hidden in the colours.

this one isn't in the Tate, but I couldn't resist it - so pretty!

This is some kind of ball or dance - 

More abstract ones.

Circle mode 

Delaunay could have carried on painting all this abstract stuff forever but she had always liked putting ideas into clothing and when her money from Russia dried up she just had to make a living, so she went into fashion. Think Laura Ashley, Cath Kidston - only more upmarket.

This is Delaunay's first go at dressmaking with her own ideas, and I have to say it's ghastly and looks mad. But Roz liked it. There's a great mix of textures - she particularly liked mixing material with a "nap" like fur and velvet with smooth and shiny fabrics, and she intentionally added a baggy bit on one side of the part that covers the bottom. The whole thing is extremely badly stitched.

Luckily in the 1920's SD's aesthetic matched the Art Deco aesthetic to a T and the union of shapes, colour, design and workmanship was a very strong one.

Peculiar padded swimsuit with no "bottoms".

Amazing coat which Roz loved, all longstitch,  but the colours are now very dull (after all these years)

These shoes are so lovely - made in long stitch.

The original designs are so beautiful

And finally we get onto my favourite bit - fabric design. Sonia Delaunay had an endless fountain of ideas for fabrics, and they are all cheerful and wearable and desirable. She was FANTASTIC at design.

and here is a piece of her work in progress:

More designs:

What a lot one can do with small strokes of the pen and judicious use of colour!

They just make you want to make things. for all creative people, what an inspiration!! amazing and wonderful. 

Then we went to Pizza Express at the Globe, then to Borough Market (all poshed up for the tourists and not at all the old market of a few years ago, now that tourists are taking photos of cheeses and things with that determined look on their faces as though they know they  must find the experience in some way enjoyable), but Roz bought some nectarines at 5  for £1 and they were excellent. What an eye for a bargain. We had an enjoyable conversation with a fishmonger. We then went out to the rest of Southwark and walked about rather randomly until we found the Menier Chocolate Factory, where we went to see more pictures, and then walked some more and found a very poor Catholic church - the walls of painted brick, the windows minimally decorated, the pews of pine. I loved it and lit some candles for S and F and J and R; all my clever darlings, of whom only S would see the point in lighting a candle.


I had a very happy day with Roz even though I felt emotionally exhausted after all those goodbyes - art helps me to balance myself.

The fourth plinth - the horse by Hans Haacke

That nasty thing on its leg is a constant LED display report of the state of the stock market prices. It's in the shape of a bow and the art work is called Gift Horse, but it ruins this eloquent statue.  

Surely this piece is all about our relationship with the horse, in essence. First of all, horses in statues are typically heroic seats for heroic (?) warriors. But this one invites us to look at the fabulous structure inside the horse and just admire it.

Then, of course, it sets us off thinking that the horse, too, is quietly heroic; historically it has gone into battle and been hacked at and shot and blown up just because we demanded that it do so.

Then we think that there used to be so many more horses; that the streets were full of horses pulling carts and cabs and carriages, we built civilisation on those horses and now they are all dead. It's a memorial to them all!

We don't memorialise them, usually. We use them for dog food and boil their bones up for glue. That is our relationship with the horse and we look up at the horse (so large, so glorious with the sky coming through its structure), and we question it.

Then we think that it might symbolise our relationship with the whole natural world, that we use it to sustain us until nothing remains but its bare bones.

And you compare it with other skeletal structures you know and what comes to mind is the dinosaur in the Natural History Museum. How we love dinosaurs, and gaze in wonder at their bones, but we don't often gaze in wonder at the creatures that are alive and right in front of us now. I can't say I think about horses from one year's end to the next - why should I? 

A friend of mine recently had one of her two horses put down. "Oh I'm sorry", I said. "What was wrong with it?" 
"It was useless." she said. "There are far too many useless horses."

Well, I have little knowledge of these things but the horse had been a good servant of hers which she had taught to do most unnatural things (dressage) and then she had simply lost interest in it and !!!

That is the human and the natural world; the balance is wrong and we approach it all with our clever long- sightedness and cold pragmatism and our constant questions about how useful it is, how useful it might be? and we will kill it all...

The Spectator’s Digby Warde-Aldam might previously have called plans for the piece “OK as public art goes”, but having seen it in reality the critic became so disgruntled by the “strip of stockmarket ticker-tape tied in a bow around its leg” that he declared: “Haacke is aiming for an Ozymandias-style comment on capital and society; what he achieves is the equivalent of a biro’ed anarchist symbol on a GCSE maths textbook. Look on my works, ye mighty, and cringe slightly.”

see the article here

Ekow Eshun, chair of the Fourth Plinth Commissioning Group, said. “It’s a memento mori, it’s a reference to art history and to the fact that money is the hidden dynamic that fuels our city for good and bad. It’s a beautiful and poetic piece.”

Last day of term

I went in at 9 as I wanted to prepare for my performance review with our line manager. I wanted to try to talk about all my failures; the end of Maybury, the problem with Carla and so forth; these things matter to me very much and cast me down, but M. never dwells on these things. In his mind, none of these things are my fault and the problem with Carla was a mental health issue (hers) that could I should not be expected to deal with. To my mind, the problem was caused by my failure to manage expectations in order to keep everything calm and sweet, and every professional person knows that managing the expectations of the clients is key. So I really wanted to tell him what lesson I had taken away from the experience and I couldn't tell him because that is not the way his mind works.

But when I went into work I found that the top priority was to mark the re-takes for the great marking session this afternoon, and I had three writing re-takes to do (2 of which were only done last night), so I had recourse to large amounts of coffee and did the marking. Then I had the performance review which took a long time because M wanted to explain so many things. He is a really good person to work for, for example, he always supports his staff...  My colleagues were all coming in and out all the time, in high spirits because it was our last day.

I was due to do a picnic with the Level 2s and I had not prepared anything even though I said I would bring a pie (I made a practice apple pie for our friends who stayed at the weekend and it was pretty good) so I felt madly guilty and I just had time to drive out to the nearest garage and get some soft drinks - normally I would get fruit juice but there was none to be had. So armed with some suitable goodies I went to the lesson and had to break the news to A that she had failed her listening test and needed to do another. She was almost outraged as this was the most strange result of all my exam results. A's English is A' level standard. I had, of course, tried to warn her by sending an email but she doesn't seem to get my emails. However, she took the blow because she knew she could pass a re-take, but clearly the pressure was on me to get it done because my colleagues were at that moment holding their examiners' meeting and they needed to check it.

With that Level 2 class, even though it was the last lesson, they were up for learning something, unlike last night's class - I didn't know what to do with them. This class gave me a hardback book as a present - a book about Trotsky in Mexico, called "The Man who Loved Dogs". One of the students had written a review of it as a task and I had said that I would love to read it, and indeed it must be good, so with Lidia's present as well I have 2 books translated from the Spanish.

 They had had a Dorothy Parker short story for h/w and only one of them had read it. So they acted it as a dialogue and then did the comprehension, discussion and vocabulary. Then they went outside for their picnic, I did the re-take with Aga, and then I ran to the car-park and got the cups and  fizzy drinks and I was keen to pour out the drinks for them ... and sprayed 7-Up all over them! No Formula One driver, armed with a bottle of champagne, has managed to douse his friends so liberally. Oh,  that lemonade came out like a volcano. Theresa was seriously annoyed and as she was pretty much soaked with horrid sticky liquid I could not blame her for her sense of humour failure.

The students had brought proper food; salad, cheese dough balls, potato cakes, and a lovely tortilla. One had brought plastic plates. it was a good lunch and I enjoyed it but felt sorry for R who was still doing Ramadan!! Oh, the insensitivity of the rest of us as we raved about the food. How very difficult it is to be inclusive.

But they had decided to accept me, with all my shortcomings, and that was very decent of them, and I know I have made two new friends with whom I look forward to spending some time.

R has failed her reading exam twice so I took her to the office and showed her how to practice and how to review her answers.

The last thing I had to do was the destinations - put everyone's future plans into a database. And for some stupid reason the database had been closed and I was too late!!!

Allotment, episode 1

We started at the allotment this weekend by cutting the long grass with a strimmer, and in order to get at the soil we find digging with the fork is best. (A spade makes no impact through the roots of the grass.) (You will notice that we still have just the one fork because it was such an expensive purchase, although I would really like to buy another. 

We have to shake the earth off the clods, turn them upside down and spread them out to dry and rot. This is according to advice from a combination of Bob and Nick. Nick is a bit of a guru, who has a very tidy and productive allotment across the path from ours. He has white hair and a white beard and could be a retired academic; he knows exactly what we should do. In order to save our twin young apple trees, which were planted only a couple of years ago by the previous cultivators, he said we should dig a kind of moat around them to water the roots. If we water from the top the roots will come up to the surface. So we did that on Sunday and today it rained a bit, though clearly you can water your apple trees as much as  you like, even when it rains. 

Nick suggests I get some compost from a garden centre and mulch the two trees, then put cardboard over the earth and a black membrane before we leave to go to Australia. I wonder if we can do all that? He has also given me some spinach plants and a lettuce to eat. 

In the garden I have a tub of potatoes but I planted them quite late – they have big tops but haven't flowered yet – should I leave them till we get back (end August) or should I dig them before we go?    

It's going to be a very hot day

I feel quite optimistic - the exams went fairly well yesterday - enjoyed the speaking and listening - and 4 out of 5 readers passed. (in one group only 2 out of 7 passed!!!) Time to pass on the good/bad news. Hey ho.

Today is the hottest day. Tonight we have 3 hour exams to invigilate.